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Coving Instructions for the installation in your home:

Prior to starting any job, it is important to consider the safety aspects of the task in hand, Take some time to assess the work area
and the tools and equipment you need to safely carry out the task at hand.
Because you will be handling long lengths of coving, it is much more preferable to work from an platform that is set at a comfortable
height, rather than from stepladders. Unless your are extremely proficent at handling coving, we suggest that you enlist the help of
someone. Plaster coving can be heavy and awkard to manipulate on your own.

Using a small length of cornice as a template to mark the top and bottom edges of the cornice on the walls and ceiling at periodic
intervals along the area where you will be fitting it.

If the wall and ceiling has not been freshly plastered, remove any wallpaper or loose paint and plaster from the area and make sure
that the the surface is free of any grease or soapy deposits. Make criss-cross scratches between the guidelines with a sharp knife to
provide a key for the adhesive if necessary.

Use a mitre box to help cut an accurate mitre at the end of the first piece of coving. Take care to place the cornice the right way
around and always double check that you are cutting the angle in the correct direction.

If your wall length is less than that of a piece of the cornice, you will need to accurately measure the wall and cut the other end with
an appropriate mitre as well. This will normally be the reverse angle. When making the cuts, use a standard wood saw.

Spread an even layer of adhesive over the top and bottom of the back of the moulding - the areas that will be in contact with the walls
and ceiling.

(A word about adhesive, do not use tile adhesive, the reason being that this adhesive is stronger than the plaster, and later if you need
to sand this out, you will damage the plaster coving before removing all of the excess tile adhesive. Also tile adhesive is not designed
to be used for this application and it does not finish with a smooth surface easily. A product that we recommend - but do not supply,
is Lafarge Joint filler, it has a good texture finishes to a smooth finish, has very good adhesion properties and is fully compatible with
the plaster cornice. However, for the novice, it might prove a little frustrating to work with because it hardens or goes off rather fast,
therefore, we recommend to mix just enough for a length at a time untill you get used to working with it.)

Press the cornice into place and line up the bottom edge with the pencil guideline. Press gently along the whole length so that the
adhesive sticks evenly.

Long lengths of coving may sag or fall off before the adhesive has set. Temporarily support the bottom edge with one or two galvanised
nails. You can remove these and fill the holes when the adhesive has dried. Depending on the type of cornice, you might also find it
beneficial to put a couple of these nails in the ceiling as well to stop the cornice rolling forward. It is also advisable to use screws
aswell. Countersink the plaster to recieve the screws.

Use a paint scraper to remove any adhesive that oozes out from the top and bottom edges and to smooth the joint line. Fill any gaps
with more adhesive then use a wet paintbrush to finish.

Continuing around the room, you can simply butt one piece up to the previous one with a straight join. Pay particular attention to any
pattern that is on the cornice, it is important for visual apeal that they match up will.

If you have any 'external' corners in the room, you will need to cut the two ends which join here with mitres in the opposite direction.
This often causes problems since, not only have you got to remember to cut the angle the right way, but also the point to which you
measure is different. The best way to remember and get it right is to always measure for the bottom edge of the cornice on external
angles and the top edge for internal angles.

If you have walls that are not at right angles to each other, feel free to email us or phone us for advise on how to get that perfect corner
join. Its easy when you know how, and we know how :-)

Try to make as few joints on the walls as possible. It's worth buying an extra full-length piece of cornice rather than use up two shorter
sections - the result will be neater.

Very heavy plaster cornice will need to be fixed with screws at 600mm spacings to provide adequate support

Most plaster type cornice is fairly fragile so take care when lifting it so that it doesn't snap. Carry it on edge at all times to avoid
snapping.

We hope that installing the cornice is an enjoyable experience for you, and if you should need any further advise or assistance,
please feel free to call us at 085 751 2750 or 091 773887.